adidas hat Little green flashing light
We plugged in a space heater to warm up. Part of the electricity went out and we needed to reset the breakers. The computer did not have a surge protector and was plugged directly into the wall. The computer will now not turn on. No signs of life except a little green blinking light located on the back of the tower beside the fan main plug.
It is expensive to just have the computer looked at and would rather have a little light shed on the problem before forking over mega bucks for a level 1 system recovery if it’s not truly needed.
second. if you need to plug in a space heater for that room. plug it into a different socket that is on a different circuit even if you have to run an extention from another room. apparently the circuit that the computer is on is not big enough, wire wise, cicuit breaker, or both to have both the computer and heater at the same time.
Thirdly. look on back of the computer at the power supply, where the AC cord plugs into. is there a on/off switch? If there is. switch the switch to off. if not. then unplug the cord from the computer. either way. remove the power source for about 30secs. then replug the cord back in or turn the switch to on. then hit the power button on the front of the computer to see if it works.
in cases like these, many times, the power supply will have a built in mechanism that when you have a surge. it will power off the supply and hence the computer is down/off. but will not let you power up the system until you remove the power source to reset this built in safety mechanism.
If this does not work. then the power supply is toast. it will need to be replace.
You might also try a quick CMOS clearing test.
There are times when interrupted power or transients can “glitch” the CMOS contents which can result in completely unpredictable failure modes, including an unresponsive system. Clearing the CMOS and then rebooting can sometimes recover from seemingly hard failures.
Properly done it’s extremely low risk and certainly worth a few minutes of time if it means not having to buy un needed new hardware and wasting time with uninstalling and reconfiguring hardware.
Under some conditions, you may need to repeat the CMOS clearing process through 2 or 3 additional re boot attempts. One would think 1 time should always be sufficient,
but I’ve had to do this iteratively on several occasions on different computers before a reboot would complete 100%. It varies from motherboard to motherboard. For example, on my new Gigabyte motherboard (GA 880GMA UD2H), there is a warning that if you clear the CMOS by the “standard” shorting the jumpers method while the PSU is still powered on, even in quiescent mode (powered “off” via the front switch but the back PSU switch still on and AC mains cord stilll plugged in), you can physically damage the mobo.
Some PSUs and system cases of retail pre assembled computers (especially older models) are custom designed, and the “standard” off the shelf PSU form factor may be incompatible. I don’t know if HP is better or worse than others in this area.
If they have a good return policy and a replacement PSU doesn’t fit you can just return it. However, you may have to obtain a “standard” case and reconfigure everything if you can’t obtain a PSU that fits properly in the original case.
edit to add:
It appears as though it’s compatible with the “standard” PSU form factor for a top of case PSU (the picture looks like it is actually upside down from the way it is mounted in the case), but it still might save you some time if you can double check before purchasing a replacement.
The CMOS clearing is actually very easy even for someone who is not very “technical”. The instructions are usually easy to understand and illustrated in the user manual. It also might be called “CMOS reset”, “BIOS reset”,